caniscream wrote:well i fooled with alot of wiring and nothing was bad. put a new fuse in and it popped before i left the autozone parking lot. i hadnt even hit the rear brake so we can rule that one out....
Actually, your Running light and Stop light are linked to the same ground, so if your ground has made a connection to your running light power wire directly without going through the bulb then it shouldd promptly blow a fuse. You can try this, but enter at your own risk.
"A.k.a. Dags guide to not going insane when your stella's wiring goes to hell. Part 1. "
Replace the fuse and disconnect all the wires from your tail light , and wrap a little electrical tape around the connectors so they don't touch the frame. essentially you have 'no' brake light in the system. Then start the bike, if you blow the fuse, it's not your brake light. Also, if you have a multimeter, you can take the fuse out, set the meter to amps and stick the leads where the fuse connects. If it reads higher then 8 with the bike running then you would have blown a 8 amp fuse. But it will be higher than 8, it will probably be close to 50 until you find your bad ground (because that is what our batteries are close to and essential this is what grounding does). After you clear your tail light, repeat the same procedure for your head light, and DO NOT reconnect your tail light, keep it out of the equation just incase you have really bad luck and have had more that one wire fry on you. From the headlight move to the signals. Even though you probably aren't running your bike with a signal constanly on, doesn't mean that the flasher doesn't always have available power. So dissconnect the flasher next and tape off the connection and re test. By this time you have now tested all auxillary lights. Move on to the fuel gauge ( i assume this is a stella) and disconnect the gauge under your seat and tape off the leads, re test. Those gauges are netoriuos for screwing up so it woldn't suprise me if that wasn't the problem. Finally, dissconnect that stupid buzzer for th turn signals and try again. Finally as has been mentioned, you have the brake switches and should do the same thing for them. Oh yeah also test the horn, and remember that the button you push actually grounds it, so dissconted the grey wire to remove power to it. Remember work from one thing, test, then go to next thing and test again, and don't reconnect the component.
I should also make the point that the reason that you lights are dim at this point is because they are only getting a residual amount power, and thats to be expected until you find the bad ground.
If that doesn't work, then you need to address the electrical start (even if you never use it, and never do) which is tricky, so try all that stuff first and if you can't find it, then I'll speculate on that. OR it means one of your powered wires melted inside the frame and is grounding. So set your multimeter to Resistance (ohms) and put one lead to the frame/ negative terminal of the battery and the other to each power wire you disconnected for each of these system. Your checking for continuity, I forget the reading but if you put the leads together you should get a resistance, and if you touch a wire that is not grounded it should read 1 or infinity, i.e. these wires are not connected. Obviously you don't want a power wire to show continuity to the ground if it isn't connected to anything. That's bad. You should leave the fuse out for the continuity testing. Why not start this by doing this you ask? Well several of these components over lap ( wired in LL, not series) and if one component grounds it will give a short circuit reading for all the components also powered in by that same wire. So we are hoping you find the problem the intial way described above. Finaly there is a possibility that one of the wires from you stator is grounding directly but I really doubt it, but it could happen. One last thing, do NOT
, under any circumstances disconnect your negative teriminal on your battery, that wire that comes from the negative battery terminal goes throught the frame under the gas tank and out to the flywheel cover (it's the big thick wire with ring connector). As long as that battery is grounded through that wire to the engine, it is acting as a better ground than YOU, which saves your ass from getting electrocuted in these senarios. I have the scar on my index finger to prove it. So always make sure that the negative terminal of the battery stays connected to the engine. Goodluck, let me know how it turns out.
I will Genuinely kick your ass.